Monstera Plant Care: Bigger Leaves With More Holes

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Last updated September 30, 2026

The monstera (Monstera deliciosa) is famous for its huge leaves full of splits and holes. But many people bring one home and wonder why the new leaves come out small and solid. The answer is almost always the same: the plant needs more light, more maturity, and something to climb. Here’s how to give it all three.

Monstera deliciosa leaf with natural splits and holes
Photo: O Tupinólogo, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Monstera care in brief

  • Light: bright, indirect light. This is the key to split leaves.
  • Water: when the top 2 inches of soil are dry.
  • Soil: chunky and airy: potting mix with bark and perlite.
  • Support: a moss pole or stake once it starts to sprawl.
  • Safety: toxic to cats and dogs if chewed.
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa): Dried Monstera Deliciosa Leaf
Photo: Bored Botanist, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Why doesn’t my monstera have holes?

The splits and holes are called fenestrations. In the wild, monsteras climb up rainforest trees toward the light, and their leaves only split once the plant is mature and getting plenty of light. Young leaves are naturally solid and heart-shaped. So if your plant has no holes, check these three things:

Light

Most indoor monsteras don’t get enough. Move it close to a bright window, where it gets lots of indirect light and maybe a little gentle morning sun.

Age

Very young plants rarely split. Splits usually start once a plant has several leaves and is a couple of years old.

Something to climb

Monsteras make bigger leaves when they can climb. A plant sprawling across the floor tends to stay smaller.

Be patient: existing leaves won’t grow new holes. Better conditions show up in the next leaves, each one usually bigger than the last.

Light

Give your monstera bright, indirect light for most of the day. A spot a few feet from a south or west window, or right by an east window, works well. A couple of hours of soft morning sun is a bonus. Hot afternoon sun through glass can scorch the leaves, leaving pale or brown patches. In low light, stems stretch long between leaves and new leaves stay small and solid.

Watering

Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. Water slowly until it runs out of the drainage hole, then empty the saucer. That often means once a week in summer and every 2 weeks in winter. Big pots dry more slowly.

Monsteras don’t like soggy roots. Yellow leaves with wet soil usually mean too much water. Drooping, curling leaves with bone-dry soil mean it’s thirsty.

Soil, pot and feeding

Use an airy mix that drains fast: about two parts potting mix, one part orchid bark and one part perlite. The pot needs a drainage hole. Repot every 1 to 2 years in spring, going up 2 inches.

Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every 4 weeks in spring and summer. Monsteras like average home temperatures, 65 to 85°F, and look best with humidity around 50%, though they handle normal indoor air well.

How to add a moss pole

1

Pick a pole

Use a moss pole, coir pole or a sturdy wooden stake, tall enough for a year or two of growth.

2

Place it at the back

Push the pole deep into the pot behind the main stem, where the plant is growing from. Try not to stab through big roots.

3

Tie the stem to it

Gently tie the main stem to the pole with soft plant ties or strips of cloth. Don’t wrap them tight.

4

Guide the aerial roots

Point the long brown aerial roots toward the pole. If you use moss, keep it lightly damp so the roots grab on.

Pruning and propagating

You can cut back a monstera that’s grown too big or leggy. Every cutting can become a new plant, as long as it has a node: the bump on the stem where a leaf and an aerial root grow out. A leaf with no node will root in water but will never grow a new leaf.

  1. Find a node on the stem, ideally with an aerial root.
  2. Cut about an inch below it with clean, sharp pruners. Keep one or two leaves on the cutting.
  3. Stand it in water with the node under the surface, or plant it in moist, airy mix.
  4. Keep it warm and in bright, indirect light. Roots grow in 2 to 4 weeks. Pot water cuttings once roots are a few inches long.
Monstera (Monstera deliciosa): Monstera Deliciosa at Cox’s Bazar
Photo: AlbeitPK, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Common monstera problems

What you seeLikely causeWhat to do
No splits in new leavesLow light or young plantMore light; add a pole; be patient
Yellow leaves, wet soilOverwateringLet the top 2 inches dry; check drainage
Brown, crispy edgesDry air or underwateringWater on time; raise humidity
Water drops on leaf tipsGuttation (releasing extra water)Normal; water a little less
Long stems, small leavesNot enough lightMove closer to a window
Webbing, speckled leavesSpider mitesShower leaves; insecticidal soap

A single old leaf at the bottom yellowing now and then is normal. It’s the plant recycling an old leaf as it grows new ones.

Monstera FAQs

How often should I water a monstera?

When the top 2 inches of soil are dry, about once a week in summer and every 2 weeks in winter.

How do I make my monstera leaves split?

Give it more bright, indirect light, let it mature, and give it a moss pole to climb. New leaves will get bigger and start splitting.

Should I cut the aerial roots off my monstera?

You can, but it’s better to guide them into the soil or onto a moss pole. They help the plant climb and take in water.

How fast does a monstera grow?

In good light and warmth, it can put out a new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks in spring and summer. Growth slows in winter.

Is monstera toxic to cats?

Yes. The ASPCA lists it as toxic to cats and dogs.

Sources and further reading

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